Auguste destotjy



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N. Y., ASSIGNOR T0 @Heli/ELE@ *SfD- SAME PLALGE,

Specification forming part of Lettere Eatent No. fl

To atl whom it may concern:

Be it known that 1, AUGUSTE Desrony., of'

city, county, and Stato of New York, have invented e. new end useful improvement in Mechines for Sewing Boote and Shoes; and .l do hereby declare the following to be e full, clear, and exact description thereof, which will enable those skilled in the n-rt to ineke and use thesaine, reference being had to the nceonipanying drawing, in which Figure 1 is a side eleve-tion of the machine, partly in section. Fig. 2 is en elevation, in seetion, .of part of the mechanism from the op-l posite side. Fig. 3 is en enlarged View oi' the i. wl-stock and ot' some ot' the adjacent parts detached. Fig. e is the machine shown in l, the lastholder being omitted. Fig. is e pien View of the machine, and Fig. 6 is n iront View ofpert of the sewing mechanism. Y

This invention relates to that eless ot' sewing-machines for Whieh Lett `rs .Patent of the UnitedStates were grtI ted to me Februnry 18, 1862, and Joly 31, 1856.

The present invention consists in e novel construction of the instholiler for supporting;- the work, in such a. manner that suoli wort, cnn et ell times be brought inthe desired relation to the needle and awl; also, in givin g to the orochetneedle e. certain niotion away from its oenter, around which it oscilletes, in suoli e lne-nner that the loop to be formed is dmwn out tothe desired length, endet the sonne time the stitch previonsl7 made is drewn 11,; tight; furthermore, in the combination, with the device for drawing out the loop or for producing the movement ot' the needle nwey from its center ojfmotion, of a shieldor needleguerd open ngbennentrienlly with seid needle, subst itielly nsereinei'ter described.

The letter A designates the table which suppors the work. The teble is supported 4by the vertical post F, which is hollow, and receives e. pin. G, from the bottom of the teble, so that the letter een be freely rotnted in e horizontal plane. The post is supported by two levers, which are connected toit et its top end bottom, respeetively, and their non vstruction and arrangement such as toproduce e parallel motion in the post end table, Lvhatever the changes in their elevation may wyii, dated October Si, 15369.

Totho lower hert ol' the freine oi' the inn chine, et li, is pivocd the lever which., for greater strength, and to obtain stestdinees, is iin-.tde double for the greater port ot' its length. r'he forward end ol' seid lever is connected to cere l1; which proie-.t from il and its roer end is weighted h v tht adjustable weight i).

To en eer on the lower ond of the post is connected n. parallel lever, l, Whose roer end is plvoted to the machine, vertieeilly, helow the pvot l) of lever ii. the tiirword end of seid lever being enteinled forw r'i. beyond the post, .1nd formed into heed 'or reising end lowering the levers, and so adjusting ythe trible A. to the required height.

The work `is pinned on n. lest, lill, supported by :t last frame or holder, L, Whieh hns three vertical erzns, one el" whieh, the ree-r one, lia-ving n squared end, enters :t eooiret mede in the lest behind-the insten, .end heide it, so that it cannot more independently of the freine.

The other two nrrne olf the freine ore errenged on enoli side or' the inst, end the Whole freine is hung by ineens of lugs projecting from these erols, which .rest in open hearings that tl ve leotffrnnie een vibrate on the 'stenderd, andhe removed end repiei'ied nt pleasure. llie standards JJ unite et the bottom in n long, narrow, *let platform, which lies upon' the table A Without being, i'estened thereto, being free to 325e moved on the tehle by the operator, according to the progress ofthe or depress the `toe or heel of tho lest, es may be required, to bring these parte into proper relation to the ew end needle, by months of e I between the stendardo J J, end engagesV n. ourved recit formed on the bottom nl' seid tranne L. The Worin, by ineens ol' hmidles formed on ite ende, "is operated to throw the heel or toe` o1 the instep ordnen.

By. ineens of the .deviens .eho've described the work is placed in `the required position to the sewing mechanism, the table being raised to the proper height, the lest adjusted to the proper level by the Worin and rook, the plat form whioheatrries ythe lent-holder moved to to the upper end ot pret by being piveted.

on thetoili/,oi' the vertical standards J J, so

sewing. The lest-:tranne is vibrnted to reise Wor1n,l, whioh is arranged in the plntibxm athe properv position on the table A, sind the 'table itself rotated by the hand of the opera tor as the sewing progresses.

From the above explaination itl 1e apparent thelt the work is borne orpressed upward con* mecha-miem consiets of c. feeding-dog carried by end working within e gage or guido for guiding the Work in the intervsls'betweenthe' stitches. The letter b designates the leed-dog.'

it vie mounted on the forward end ci' en elbowlever, pivoted to the feed-bnr, end ie united' with the ieedgege, es shown in Figs. i end 5. The other end of the seid elbow-lever is con nected to one end of e rod., having at its other in a. cem-groove, 3, formed in thelface of one of the disks R. The rod n is so arranged that its forward end. is capable ci." lateral inotion --elong with the feed-bar.

The letter c designates the feed-gege, whose edge runs in the channel inV the sole. itl is rigidly connected to the feed-her d, which extende bncirwerd, and ie attached to the frame of the nehinein'euch a. manner es to allow of both the feed-her amd feeddog being moved /leterally bach end forth.

The Interni movements of the feed-dog endl its ber or stock ere derived from the cemgroove il of one of the disks E, ectingon the slotted bar c, which extcnds'forivsrrl end slides upon thepert X of the freine of the machine. The slot in ber e is diagonal to the direction of its motion, which is confined to a right line by suitable "guides in the part X, and seid slot receivcee pin,l(seen in the plan view, Fig. 5,) which projects upward from the fece of the stock d ofthe feed-dog.

It results from this arrangement that the vibrationeoi. the bnr c, acting hy its. slot on thekpin .of esiti feed-'her orstoclg, gives to the letter` thelreciprooeting motion which ie reqllireth 33..., '.1' i i.

stitch mede bythe machine is the weilhuownlchnin, end it ie produced by the devices hereinafter described. On the spindle' or exis Z, which4 is supported by the extension of the frame X, is mounteden owl-stock, h, the upper partici' which is formed into an arc slotted concentricelly with its center of motion. Through its slot, ond into a. slot in the erm of the needlestoch n, projects n. pin,

n', which is fest to e connecting-rod, i, that entendsbeckwsrd, and is coupled bythe crankpin to the two caim-disks R R.

lly these menne vthe ewl'stoek .receives pertiei rotetion-on its exis, the movements of the connecting-rod being coxnninnicotedtoit whennext to the eivlstock, .Whichgis in een over 'the pin n strikes the ends of the slotted arm. The awl (se-en at g, Figs. l, 2, and 3) is curved concentricelly with its center of motion, and is forced through, the leather by a.

lever, 10, which continues the rotation of the nWlstoolr,-efter the connectingrod .i has drown slotted nrc, when seid connecting-rod i has reached theend of its reeeding movement. The com 2in-eo timed es et vtime moment to vibrate lever l0 end detente ite forward erm downward on the slotted erin'of the ewllst-oci; and continue its movement, and thereby drive the eWl with e stendy force through thei leather. 1 end e pin' or enti-friction roller, which movesv The owl is eteedieddnring fits passage through the leather by n stationery reet, m, which projectie backward from erm X, et a point beneath the spindle Z, eeid rest being recessed at one eide to form e' passage for the owl. The seid rest m oleo forme a. stripper,

to strip the leather and Weit of theehoe from the owl es the latter retiren. The ovvi is also' support/ed end guided. during its movements by the shield E which .eiirronnds it, and 'through ywhich it ie 'ree'to move. This, shield' 'is formed on the lower edge of the vibrating quadrant j, which is mounted on spindle Z l part hid by it in the Views, Figs. l. end 4i. The quadrantv j and owl-stock h are seen from the other side in Figs. 3 end 3*." Seid quadrant is provided with a slot, 22, which is concentric with its center of motion, and in thisslot moves s pin', 2l, which. is secured in the :iwi-stock. Yv/Vhen the owl-stock 7i moves in the direction of the arrow, marked neeritinliigg', it cerries'the qundrnntj with it by friction to' the position shown in said figurethat is, until the shield 'l strikes the stripper in, @it `that point the quadrant stopsfnnd the evvlstoek continues to more in the seme directomcerrying theA pin 21 from the upper end oi'v the slot 22 to ite lower end, and forcing the .evil throughthe leather. tion the shield'l is kept close to the leather, and the owl is materially strengthened in pen.y forming its function. QWhen the motion of f the ewletock is reversed theguedrantj moves g with it 'by friction until the pin 12 strikes e shoulder of the arm X.` (See Fig. 3.) At thin point the motion of the quadrant stops, and. the aval-stock completen its motion in they direction of the arrow, (shownneer it in Fig. 39,) thereby carrying the pin 2l beck ngein to.)l the upper end oft the elot 22, when the needl i retires. The needle or hook' y is dtawn'th curve, havingtie seme rechne es theawlhnt During this portion of the opereits point is opppsite that of' the owl, end it moves in au opposite.direction, so to follow the point ot' the envies the latter recedes, and it enters the hole made by the awl in the work. The needle is ixed upon e stock, which is mounted, to revolve freelrr upon en oscillating spindle, Z', hung inthe end of n lever, 7, which vibretes on e pivot, 8, lnd is moved from 'the cam-grooves 4 of one ot` the omndisks at certain tiines, to wit: while the nee, die or hook is going through the leather the -spindle Z coincides with 4the spindle Z, bnt

when the needle has left the work the spindle Z is osoilleted and projected in e forward di-v reotion by the cern e, so als to carry the necdle or hook outwerdcleer of the work., whereby the 'new loop is drawn out to the required length, and et the'senle time the old stitch is drawn up tight. The needle-stock is then revolved in o backward direction, so ae to be ready for o new stitch, r.nud before it cornes to e state of rest the spindle Z is oerried beek4 ward egein into line with spindle Z. The vibration of the needle on itsspindle is effected by the conneotingrod t' and its pin n that works in a. slot in the needle-stock n. The berb of the needle isA covered et certain times by protector q, (eeen in Fig. 6,),which is e front view ofn portion of the sewing mechanism. Seid protector is curved likefthe needle or hook, end projects,v from a vibrating-plete, S, which is mountedl ou spindle Z', so as to turn freely thereon, being vibretcd from e cern, on one of thecain-disks R, through the elbowlever az, which is piroted et 6 to said can disk, theup'per longer part of said lever m heing plvoted to the renr end ot e connectingroil, t, whose forward end s Ieitteohed to the top of plate s.

The needle pis 'Supported in its movements y by two guides, r, (seen in Figs. l end 6,) both ot' which guides torni rigid parts oiA the plete 5;, end in this exemple the protector' g is directly attached to seid guides, and through them to the said plete s, said protector being on the outer side ot' seid guides, unil the needie or hoolr p consequently in goingl through the guides passes between the protector' und thc dat surface of the plate '3. Said guides serve to steady the needle as it passes into and out of the leather, nndithelower guide servesa-lso ns n stripper to strip the leather or welt or other Worlr from the needle when the lutter recedes from it.

The ounrgroove 5, which gives motion to the plete s end to the protector g, is so timed es to canse said protector to remain stationary nl'ter both the needle and the protector have gone through the hole lnudein the work by the owl, While the needle or hook p, the movement of which is derived from the crank if, continues to advance until its barb is uncovered and ie brought opposite to the roteting. threed-cerrier r W, hereinafter described,

which throws the thread around its barb and forms e loop, which is drown by the needle (which next begins to retire) through the leather, Where it is rejoined, sind its open Side covered by the protector', and both thence move together ont ol' the work, the protector serving to retain the loop on the herb end prmecting` the leather frein .being injured by the barb, and also stiii'ening and strengthening the hoolr or needle When the needle and protector ere raised or brought nicer of the work, the feed of the materiel taires piece, und the loop is thereby drown sidewise, end by the next descent oi' the hoolr itis opened or bulged, the protector et that time remaining stationery end allowing the loop to expend laterally beyond ite point, so that when the seine next descends it passes into the loop and resumes its piece alongside the hook to close it, with the loop outside ot' the protector,

The bool; and protector, in traversing the leather the next time, leeres the loop behind, and when they return bring with them new loop, which they drew up through the old one; end, es theneedle is projected outwardly, this old loop iedruwn up tight end the new loopl is drawn ont to the required length. llt is of the greeteet'iinportence to sew with. the thread and Weir et e high temperature. The thread is drown from e reel or spool,0 which is mounted on a spindle in et closed inenten?, that is attached to e convenient port of the freine. Seid. hesiter is formed as shown in Fig. l, where one side teken army, its bottorn being open to admit the 'Heine ol' e lomp to ect directly on e curved plate, Q, which detlects the Home end heated air nud gases, end directs it toward the sides of the heater and around the spool, et the seme time protecting the body oi the 4thread from contact with the deine. The top ot' t1 l eter is cer ried upwerd to the height of the tbreedenrrier, or nearly to that height, ond the thread is thence conducted through the shank end exis ot" the threed-onrrier, is eeen in Fig. l, on its Way to the work. The thread-carrier W is sustained by the perl; X of the freine in such n menner that it een revolve in its eupporte.. its forward end, where the thread emerges, is bentto it right angle, so that its delivering end describes e circle around the hoolr 3 9, when the latter is in pince to receive the thread. The carrier is revolved et the proper times in one direction only, by nieu-ns of e, cet-in,l El', on

shaft of the latter to two toothed Wheels, 37';

the smaller of which is 'formed on the inner end oi' the hollow carrier, the genre end wheels being` so orrenged that e completa rerolution of' the carrier' is ei'eoted duringthe' time that the Wheel l is performing ou" querter ot' o revolution.

3,. In combination wb tlm device fordmwing @at the inap or 'for producing the mom mem; ofthe needl may from, ibs center 0f motion, a shield or needle-gaan! operating pnentrically with sai. neede, uhstanivallvy shcv and dascbedg* as hureiu shown am! described.

'2. Tm'fgmedle 'hwifiaag a mvmem away AUGUSTE DES10UY. fram its xmr of motion after it has been Wtne'sses: drawn annui' ma work, substantially as Emre- E. F. .KASTENHUBEE, r

, in shame and sa; forth. J'. VAN SANTVUORD. 

